How to Clean Your Vintage Clothing
The process of cleaning vintage garments is one that needs to be carefully done. There are many different factors when it comes to cleaning vintage clothing, and in this guide, we will give the step by step actions that we recommend. This is knowledge that we have acquired over years of working with vintage clothing, but of course, there are some methods we do not mention that can work as well. Really, it’s just a matter of what works best for you and sticking to that.
First, it is necessary to identify the type of fabrics that your particular item is made with. As with everything, different fabrics and materials require different cleaning methods. Some may be more delicate than others, some might be able to withstand a little roughness, so it is imperative to identify these fabrics first. After discovering what your item is made from, the next step is to prep the clothing for the cleaning process. This can be trying to remove dirt and grim from the top surface of the garment. Or perhaps adding different stain removal mixtures to an area as well. In this guide, we will discuss what we use specifically to treat our items. The last step is to wash the item and dry it accordingly. With following these steps, we can look to extend the life of our vintage clothing one year at a time.
Step 1: Identifying Fabric Types
Before you begin applying stain removers & other prepping methods, you’ll want to identify what fabric(s) your vintage garment is made from. This will give you a better understanding on how to care for the item. Just like with identifying what year an item is from, you’ll want to start with looking at the tags. The tags on vintage clothing can list the materials used. Look for things like “100% cotton,” etc… Different fabrics can be more delicate than others, so again it is very important to find out what your item is made from.
In the instance of a missing tag(s) from your item, then you can try a variety of tests such the burn or water test.
The burn test involves lighting a small piece of the fabric and observing how it burns & smells.
- Cotton: The smell is like paper burning, the fabrics will turn into ashes (if 100% cotton fabrics). But when blended some ashes & molten plastic appears.
- Nylon: Due to their fabric finish, they quickly burn and shrink to flame. The odor is like celery and they leave no ash but the fume is very hazardous.
- Polyester: It burns quickly and shrinks away from flame, may also flare up. It has a slightly sweet chemical odor. It leaves no ash but its black smoke and fume are hazardous.
- Acrylics: They flare up at match-touch, shrink from flame, burn rapidly with hot sputtering flame and drip dangerously. When burning, they give out a strong acrid, fishy odor. Although no ash is left, their black smoke and fume are hazardous.
The water test involves adding a few drops of water to the fabric and observing what the water does to the material.
- Cotton: Absorbs the water, almost immediately, leaves water droplet on garment until dried
- Nylon: Water resistant, but not as much so as polyester. Still absorbs a bit if rubbed into garment
- Polyester: Known as ‘every day waterproof.’ It is not 100% waterproof, but does not absorb quite like nylon (common in sports jerseys)
- Acrylics: Hot water can damage acrylic if exposed enough, but as the others, is water resistant, but made from wool or wool-like fibers that can be easily recognizable when compared to the other listed fabrics
Once these fabrics are identified, the prepping process can begin.
Step 2: Prepping Garment
Once fabric identification is complete, it is time to prepare you item for the washing & drying process. One thing to do before any stain removal is applied is to locate any tears, rips, holes or any other damage that the garment might have. This is important to do because (aside from which fabric is identified) you may not want to throw an item with excessive ‘damage’ right away in the washing machine. This is because the washing machine may increase the size of these damaged locations. Tiny, minuscule holes can turn into huge torn areas if not cared for properly.
After looking over the garment for tears, rips, and holes, it is time to find any dirt, grim or other debris on the item. You can look at the item closely, or you can use a lint roller to remove the debris. This will prevent any debris from being woven into the garment’s fibers during the washing process.
Once this is completed, you’ll move on to the next step, which is applying your favorite stain removal method on any located stains or blemishes. There are a variety of stain removers that you can use but we recommend two specifically: 1) Oxiclean Max Force & 2) Natural stain removers like vinegar, lemon juice or baking soda.
When it comes to cotton items we like to use Oxiclean Max Force. It is the absolute best stain remover that we have found, & it really does remove 99% of stains. Just apply a 2 squirts of the remover on the stain & allow it to rest for 5-10 minutes before washing. (For really stubborn stains, you can allow it to sit for 1-2 days).
When it comes to other delicate fabrics like cashmere, acrylic, nylon, etc. we recommend one of the natural remover options. Just apply these just as you would any other stain remover. Allow it to sit 5-10 minutes before washing. These are great because it won’t cause any discoloration in the garment.
What about solid white items? With all whites, we believe the best method is to first spray stains with Oxiclean Max Force, or preferred stain remover, then set in a mixture of bleach (or Oxiclean White Revive) & warm water. Allow it to soak for as long as you like, but we recommend no less than 2 hours. Then allow for the washing & drying process to take place. (Tip: after spraying with stain remover, lay flat outside with direct sunlight for 1-2 hours- in some cases the stains will rise & be removed even before washing & drying.)
The most important thing to keep in mind, however, is some materials may not be compatible with any of these stain removal methods. We recommend testing a small, unnoticeable area first. If the stain is unable to be removed, it may be wise to take the item to a professional cleaner, but one that is familiar with the care of vintage clothing. Once the desired stain removers are completed, it is time for the last step: washing & drying the garment.
Step 3: Washing & Drying Garments
The final step is to wash & dry your items. This is the simplest part of the process, but also an area where things can go wrong if you are not careful. With delicate items & items that come before the 90s, we recommend hand washing. Hand washing can be a grueling but necessary process. Avoid using regular detergents or bleach, just take your desired garment, place it in some running water (we suggest the sink), & gently swirl until suds appear. Allow the item to soak for about 5-10 minutes, then swirl the garment again for about 1-2 minutes. Drain the water & wash with clean water. Repeat this process until all the suds are gone and/or whenever the water is no longer dirty. Please avoid wringing or twisting the garment, this can cause damage to the fabric fibers. Instead, gently push out the water against the sink with your hands.
With non-delicate items, the washing machine is *okay* to use. We suggest putting the machine on normal wash, with cold water. Do not use warm or hot water as this can cause discoloration or damage to the garment. Allow for the normal washing time to pass before moving on to the drying process. (Tip: wash whites with whites, colors with colors.)
The most important thing to note in this step, is NEVER DRY YOUR GARMENTS IN THE DRYER. We believe this is the most important thing to keep in mind out of this entire guide. The dryer can remove graphics from tees & sweatshirts, begin piling & loose threads, shrink the garment & other damages. We always, always recommend air drying your vintage items ensuring their longevity. Please do not ever dry your vintage garments.
While we do recommend to never dry your vintage items, there are exceptions. Maybe you are running late to a party & wanting to wear your favorite vintage tee. Or perhaps you have a ton of items that you need to dry at once. Whatever it may be, if you must dry your item in the dryer, we suggest doing it with no heat. Allow it to air tumble. This takes a longer time to complete drying, but will be a better care method than drying it with heat.
Overview
In conclusion, cleaning vintage garments requires a meticulous approach to preserve their unique charm and extend their lifespan. This guide has provided a step-by-step process that we recommend based on our years of experience working with vintage clothing. However, it is important to acknowledge that there may be alternative methods that can also be effective. Ultimately, finding what works best for you and sticking to it is key. Identifying the fabric type is crucial as different materials require different cleaning methods. Preparing the garment by removing surface dirt and treating stains is an essential preliminary step. Finally, washing and drying the item in a suitable manner completes the cleaning process. By following these steps, we can contribute to the preservation of vintage clothing, cherishing their history one year at a time.